There is a moment, somewhere past the main waterfall crowd, past the last chai stall, where the stone path narrows and the noise drops away. The air smells of pine and damp earth. Somewhere above you, faintly, comes the sound of a harmonium drifting from a rooftop. That is Upper Bhagsu — and most people visiting Dharamshala never reach it.
If you have spent even a day in McLeod Ganj, you know the feeling: the main square is loud, the cafes are packed with fellow travelers, and the "hidden gems" everyone recommends are already on every travel blog. Upper Bhagsu, McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh, India is only a 15-minute walk uphill from that noise — but it exists in an entirely different world.
This guide comes from inside that world. Upper Bhagsu is where long-stay travelers, independent artists, yoga practitioners, and musicians actually live. It is where the real offbeat Dharamshala experience begins — and where the secret spots McLeod Ganj regulars keep quietly to themselves. Below are 10 of those spots: trails, viewpoints, cafes, community circles, and experiences that no tour package will ever include.
What Makes Upper Bhagsu Different From McLeod Ganj?
Upper Bhagsu sits above Bhagsu Nag village, roughly 2–3 km from the McLeod Ganj town centre in Kangra District, Himachal Pradesh. You reach it by taking the lane to the left of the taxi stand before McLeod Ganj's main market, climbing uphill past the Bhagsu Nag Temple road. Most day-trippers follow the crowds to Bhagsu Waterfall and turn back. Upper Bhagsu begins where that path keeps going.
The character of the neighbourhood is bohemian and deliberately unhurried. There are no large hotels here. Instead: small hostels, family-run guesthouses, independent rooftop cafes, and yoga spaces that do not advertise online. The permanent community is a mix of local Gaddi families, Tibetan residents, and a rotating cast of long-stay Western travelers from across Europe, North America, and Australia.
Because Upper Bhagsu sits higher on the hillside, it is noticeably cooler than McLeod Ganj town — a welcome fact if you are visiting between April and June. The Dhauladhar mountain range frames every rooftop view. Most importantly, it is quiet. Not silent — but the kind of quiet that lets you think.
10 Upper Bhagsu Hidden Places Most Tourists Never Find
These spots are not secret because they are difficult to reach. They are secret simply because the trail to them goes in the opposite direction from where the crowds walk.
1. The Hidden Trail Beyond Bhagsu Waterfall
Every visitor to the area walks to Bhagsu Waterfall. Very few keep going. The path that continues beyond the main fall leads upward through boulders and pine trees to a series of quieter, smaller pools — no vendors, no crowds, and an unobstructed view of the valley below. The best time to make this walk is early morning, before 8 AM, when the lower section is still empty. The rocks are perpetually wet from the spray of the falls.
Wear closed-toe shoes with grip. The boulders look passable in sandals but are slippery. The further you climb, the more the path opens into a natural amphitheatre of rock faces and forest canopy.
2. The Rooftop Cafes on the Upper Lane
The lane that runs through the upper section of Bhagsu village is lined with small, independent cafes that rarely appear on Google Maps. These are not tourist restaurants. They are places where long-stay travelers spend entire mornings — reading, writing, or looking at mountains over a slow breakfast. Look for spots with floor seating, handwritten menus, and rooftop decks facing the Dhauladhar peaks. Tree House Cafe, Rakus Place, and Nature Twins are among the regulars that travelers return to again and again.
Come on a weekday morning. By midday even these cafes begin to fill. Order something slow — a thali, a bowl of porridge — and give yourself two hours. You will understand why people extend their stay here week after week.
3. Shiva Cafe: The Viewpoint Above the Falls
Shiva Cafe sits perched on rocks directly above Bhagsu Waterfall — one of the most dramatically positioned eating spots in all of Dharamshala. It is well-known in backpacker circles but remains almost entirely invisible to day-trippers who arrive in McLeod Ganj without venturing uphill. The real secret is arriving before the cafe opens. If you walk up before sunrise, the ledge outside becomes a private viewpoint: the Kangra Valley below, the mountains above, and in monsoon season, mist moving through the gorge in slow waves.
Sit on the outer ledge facing east for sunrise. Order chai once the cafe opens and watch the light shift across the valley. This is one of the secret spots in McLeod Ganj that people come back to find, years after their first visit.
4. The Dharamkot Forest Walk
Most travelers go from Upper Bhagsu to Dharamkot by road. A forest path connects the two directly — no road, no vehicles, no noise. It takes roughly the same time as the road route (20–25 minutes) but passes through a dense stand of deodar cedar that shuts out the sky. Along this path are small stone shrines decorated with marigolds, unmarked viewpoints over the valley, and the kind of forest light in the late afternoon that makes even experienced travelers stop walking. This route does not appear on any map app.
Walk this at golden hour — the 45 minutes before sunset. The light filters through the cedars at a low angle and the entire forest changes colour. Bring a light jacket; the canopy drops the temperature noticeably. Ask any cafe owner in Upper Bhagsu for the forest path to Dharamkot — they will point you in the right direction immediately.
5. The Community Yoga Shalas
Upper Bhagsu has a cluster of small yoga spaces that operate quietly without websites or online booking systems. These are not the commercial studios advertising multi-day retreats to international visitors. They are community shalas — small rooms or rooftop platforms where a consistent group of locals, long-stay travelers, and occasional newcomers practice together each morning. Names like Alpesh Yoga (Iyengar-influenced), Banjaara Yoga (Ayurveda-focused), and Lotus Yoga (traditional Hatha) circulate among those who have stayed long enough to hear about them. Drop-in classes are almost always available.
Ask at your guesthouse or hostel for the current schedule. These shalas change seasonally and the best ones spread by word of mouth only. Practice groups are small — five to eight people at most — and the instruction is careful and unhurried.
6. The Nag Dal Lake Trekking Route
Everyone who visits Dharamshala has heard of Triund. Very few have heard of Nag Dal — a sacred high-altitude lake connected to the ancient mythology of the Bhagsunag temple. The trail begins at the upper edge of Upper Bhagsu village, above the last cafes, and climbs steeply into the Dhauladhar range. This is a harder trek than Triund and significantly less crowded. On most days you will share the trail with local shepherds, a few serious trekkers, and the occasional solo traveler who asked the right questions. The lake itself sits in a high bowl of rock and sparse alpine grass.
Start before 7 AM, carry at least 2 litres of water per person, and do not attempt this route during monsoon (July–September) or heavy snow. Tell someone at your guesthouse your plan before you leave.
7. The Street Art Quarter
A section of walls along the upper lanes of Bhagsu village has accumulated, over years, a dense collection of murals. These are not commissioned works or tourist installations. They are the layered record of artists — from Germany, Israel, France, the United States, and elsewhere — who passed through, stayed longer than expected, and left something on the walls. The murals range from intricate mandala patterns to portraits, protest slogans, and detailed Himalayan landscapes. The collection changes each season as new visitors add their work over older pieces. As an open-air gallery it is entirely unintentional — which makes it more interesting than most things with "gallery" in the name.
Walk this section in the morning when the light hits the walls directly. The colours read differently at different times of day. The densest concentration of murals is on the stretch of wall just below the main rooftop cafe lane.
8. The Sunset Ledge Viewpoint
Locals and long-stay residents refer to it simply as the sunset ledge. It is a flat rock outcrop above the treeline, reached by a short unmarked path off the Triund trailhead above Upper Bhagsu. From here, the view opens in both directions simultaneously — the Kangra Valley descends to one side, the Dhauladhar peaks rise to the other. This viewpoint does not appear on Google Maps, in guidebooks, or on any travel website. It is known to those who stay long enough to be told about it. In the evening, a handful of residents walk up here with a thermos of tea and watch the day end.
Ask any cafe owner in Upper Bhagsu for directions — they will know exactly where it is. Go in the final hour of sunlight and bring something warm; the wind picks up as the sun drops.
9. Morning Kirtan and Music Circles
Before the cafes fill and before the trekkers head uphill, something happens across Upper Bhagsu each morning that most visitors sleep through entirely. Small music circles gather on rooftops and in hostel courtyards — someone with a harmonium, a few voices, a hand drum. These are informal kirtan sessions: call-and-response chanting rooted in the North Indian devotional tradition. No ticket is required. No prior knowledge of Indian music is needed. These circles are open to anyone who sits down. They last 30 to 90 minutes and are one of the most genuinely moving experiences available in the entire Dharamshala area — and they are completely invisible to tourists staying in McLeod Ganj.
This tradition is at the heart of what Krishna Music School's Summer Music Retreat in Upper Bhagsu is built around — a 10-day immersion (May 5–15, 2026) in harmonium, kirtan chanting, and Indian classical vocals, designed entirely for complete beginners, based in the village itself.
Set an alarm for 6 AM. Walk to the upper section of the village. Follow the sound. You will find it.
10. The German Bakery Community Noticeboard
The German Bakery is a long-standing fixture of Upper Bhagsu's traveler community — good bread, filter coffee, mountain views, and floor seating. But the real reason to visit is the noticeboard inside. Updated daily, this board lists everything happening in Upper Bhagsu that week: free yoga classes at the community shalas, sound healing sessions, group sunrise treks, instrument jam nights, and one-off cultural events. None of these appear online. The board is the only place they exist. Checking it every morning is, for long-stay residents, the functional equivalent of checking a social media feed — except it is accurate, relevant, and worth reading.
Check the board on your first morning and every morning after that. New events appear overnight. Some of the most memorable experiences Upper Bhagsu offers — a moonlight Triund walk, an impromptu tabla lesson, a shared meal at a local Tibetan family's home — begin on this board.
The One Hidden Experience That Changes Every Traveler in Upper Bhagsu
There are plenty of places in Dharamshala where you can watch Indian music being performed. There is only one place in Upper Bhagsu where you can learn to play it yourself — as a complete beginner, in small groups, on real instruments, with teachers who have spent over 17 years teaching students from more than 50 countries.
Krishna Music School's Summer Music Retreat runs May 5–15, 2026, based in Upper Bhagsu. Over 10 days, participants learn harmonium, kirtan chanting, Indian classical raga singing, and mantra-based vocal practice. The retreat is built for people who have never played an instrument before — 90% of participants arrive with zero musical background, and all of them leave having played.
This is not a performance class. It is an immersion — the kind of offbeat Dharamshala experience that does not show up on any booking platform. It fits into the rhythm of Upper Bhagsu itself: slow mornings, open practices, mountain air, and music that sounds different at altitude.
Join the May 2026 Summer Music Retreat — Upper Bhagsu
10 days in Upper Bhagsu learning harmonium, kirtan, Indian classical vocals, and raga. Complete beginners welcome. Small groups. Experienced teachers. Limited spots.
📍 Based in Upper Bhagsu, McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala · 📅 May 5–15, 2026
See the Full Retreat Schedule →How to Get to Upper Bhagsu and When to Visit
Getting to McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala
The closest airport is Kangra/Gaggal Airport (DHM), approximately 18 km from McLeod Ganj. Overnight Volvo buses run daily from Delhi (ISBT Kashmere Gate) — the journey takes 11–13 hours and is the most popular route for international travelers. The nearest major railway station is Pathankot, approximately 90 km away, with connecting buses and taxis available.
McLeod Ganj to Upper Bhagsu
From McLeod Ganj bus stand, take the lane to the left of the taxi stand, following the Bhagsu Nag Temple road uphill. The walk takes 15–20 minutes at a steady pace. Auto-rickshaws and shared taxis cover the same route in 5 minutes. The road is steep and narrow — not suitable for those with mobility difficulties.
Best Time to Visit
| Season | Months | Conditions | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring / Early Summer | March – June | Clear skies, warm days, cool nights | Trekking, cafe culture, music retreats |
| Monsoon | July – September | Heavy rain, dramatic waterfalls, slippery paths | Waterfall visits; avoid high-altitude treks |
| Autumn | October – November | Cool, clear, very quiet, exceptional mountain views | Yoga retreats, photography, peaceful stays |
| Winter | December – February | Cold (0–8°C), possible snowfall, very few tourists | Solitude, meditation, music study; pack layers |
Where to Stay in Upper Bhagsu
Accommodation in Upper Bhagsu ranges from basic dorm beds in backpacker hostels to quiet private rooms in family-run guesthouses. Options like HostelLaVie and several homestays on the upper lane offer clean, simple accommodation significantly cheaper than the hotels in McLeod Ganj centre. Most guesthouses are run by local families and include access to rooftop spaces where much of Upper Bhagsu's informal community life happens.
Frequently Asked Questions About Upper Bhagsu
What is Upper Bhagsu?
Upper Bhagsu is a small, bohemian traveler village located above Bhagsu Nag, approximately 2–3 km from McLeod Ganj town centre in Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh, India. It is known for independent cafes, yoga shalas, morning music circles, and a strong community of long-stay international visitors from the USA, UK, Europe, Australia, and Israel.
What are the best hidden places in Upper Bhagsu?
The best Upper Bhagsu hidden places include the secret trail beyond Bhagsu Waterfall, the Sunset Ledge viewpoint, the Nag Dal Lake trekking route, rooftop cafes on the upper lane, the Dharamkot forest walk, the street art murals, and morning kirtan music circles. None of these appear on standard travel itineraries or booking platforms.
How is Upper Bhagsu different from McLeod Ganj?
McLeod Ganj is the main tourist hub — busy, commercial, and well-documented. Upper Bhagsu is quieter, community-driven, and far less commercialised. It is where long-stay travelers, artists, and practitioners actually live during extended stays in Dharamshala.
How is Upper Bhagsu different from Dharamkot?
Upper Bhagsu sits lower on the hillside than Dharamkot and has more cafe culture and community social life. Dharamkot is quieter and more retreat-focused, home to several established yoga and meditation centres. A forest path connects the two villages directly, bypassing the road entirely.
How do I get from McLeod Ganj to Upper Bhagsu?
From McLeod Ganj bus stand, take the lane left of the taxi stand, following the Bhagsu Nag Temple road uphill. The walk takes 15–20 minutes. Auto-rickshaws and taxis cover the same route in approximately 5 minutes.
When is the best time to visit Upper Bhagsu?
March to June offers the best combination of clear weather, open trails, and active cafe culture. October and November are cooler and quieter, with exceptional mountain views. July to September is monsoon — beautiful waterfalls but slippery trails. December to February is cold, quiet, and ideal for yoga or music retreats.
Is Upper Bhagsu safe for solo female travelers?
Upper Bhagsu is generally considered safe for solo female travelers. It has a well-established international backpacker community, active and well-lit cafe lanes during the day, and is regarded as one of the more welcoming areas for solo travelers in Himachal Pradesh. Standard travel awareness applies, particularly on mountain trails after dark.
Are there music classes in Upper Bhagsu?
Yes. Krishna Music School's Summer Music Retreat is held in Upper Bhagsu and welcomes complete beginners to learn harmonium, kirtan chanting, and Indian classical vocals over 10 days. The next retreat runs May 5–15, 2026. Music classes in Bhagsu, Himachal Pradesh are also available in other formats throughout the year.
What are the lesser-known treks starting from Upper Bhagsu?
The Nag Dal Lake trek and the forest path to Dharamkot are the two most significant routes starting from Upper Bhagsu that most visitors miss. The Triund trek also begins nearby but is well-known. Nag Dal is harder, higher, and rarely crowded — the most rewarding of the three for experienced trekkers.
Planning Time in Upper Bhagsu? Make It Count.
If you are spending days or weeks in Dharamshala, the Summer Music Retreat in Upper Bhagsu is the kind of experience that changes what a trip means. Ten days of immersive music learning — harmonium, kirtan, Indian classical vocals — in the village itself. No experience required.
You might also find our 7-Day Dharamshala Spiritual Itinerary and our guide to music classes in Bhagsu, Himachal Pradesh useful for planning your time in the area.
View the Summer Retreat Details →